Like a Phoenix Rising...

July 14

Our city tour of Warsaw today revealed not only the dramatic modern skyline of the business district, beautiful parks and heroic statues (ex:Chopin), but the completely rebuilt Old Town, recreated from an artist's paintings of the 16th century buildings which stood here prior to WWII. Every building looked authentic and is occupied by residents and businesses that want to keep their identity here. In reality, Warsaw is only 70 years old.
Lunch on our own, Claire and I enjoyed stuffed cabbage rolls at a picturesque little bistro.
Farewell reception with our group tonight before packing for home. A most successful and special trip with new-found friends.

Rebuilt Warsaw

July 14

Leaving one of my "new" favorite cities - Krakow, our long drive over hill and dale led us first to the Jaina Gora Monastery, the most holy of the Catholic pilgrimage  sites in Poland, where the Black Madonna icon is displayed. All popes have come to this sight and soon it will be World Youth Day.
Our last destination is Warsaw. Though it was flattened by the Nazis in WWll it has risen to be a beautiful modern city of high rise glass buildings! Our special treat upon arrival was a Chopin piano concert in a classic setting. Beautiful.

A Difficult Day

July 13

Yesterday the rains poured down on us as we walked Aushowitz, the Naxi Consentration and Extermination camp, for two hours. God's tears! Can't put it into words.
Needed the afternoon to take time out back in Krakow. We had visited the old Jewish neighborhood, Kazimierz, the day before, and for our last night in Krakow I chose to return for more uplifting night of dinner and klezmer music at a charming restaurant, once visited by Steven Spielberg. Met a nice couple from San Diego who asked me to share their table. Great evening.

Wieliczka Salt Mines

July 11

This afternoon we escaped the heat by descending 250 ft. underground for a 3 hour tour of the 900 year old UNESCO site, the Wieliczka Salt Mines. Boy, are our "dogs" tired! Dinner of authentic pierogies tonight.

Krakow, Medieval Showcase

July 11

It's difficult for us Americans to wrap our minds around the idea of a city built in the 11th century, yet here we are steeped in a fascinating history lesson of kings, popes, and armies conquering, building, and moving borders for a thousand years to shape what is now Poland and the beautiful city of Krakow. High on royal Wawel Hill sits the palace complex which we explored this morning, after which our city walking tour lead us through Old Town, passing such landmarks as Pope John Paul ll's birthplace, the university attended by Copernicus. I think this is my new favorite city, if it weren't for this crazy language!

Good-bye Prague, Hello Krakow

July 10

It is time to say good-by to our "Women of the River" and begin our post-trip.  A long bus ride today, past rolling farmland into Poland. Watched an excellent BBC series on our way called "WWll, Behind Closed Doors". If you're a history buff this trip is for you!
Arriving at our modern Krakow hotel late this afternoon, we were taken by "golf carts" through the exciting, Sunday night bustle of Old Town to our fine restaurant. This is a very Catholic country and there are churches on every corner, it seems. Fun to see everyone out enjoying the warm summer evening.

Prague, Then and Now

July 9

Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, dates back to the 1300's. Our walking tour this morning through the "lesser town" and along the Vltava River,  was guided by a very knowledgeable woman who traced its history as we made our way toward the famous Charles Bridge. Much to absorb!Of course, the astronomical clock in the main huge square is a "must see". Lunch on our own as we were given the rest of the day to explore on our own. My personal quest was to find the modern moving steel structure of Franz Kofka, tucked away near Wensesloaus Square. Navigating the tram system, we returned to our hotel for the farewell dinner with those ending this trip tomorrow.

From Ship to Shore

July 8

Leaving our delightful "home away from home" today we travel south from the borders of Germany to the Czech Republic, through rolling hills and clumps of forest - summer green. A somber stop along the way is the fort and cemetery at Terezin, the first of the temporary concentration camps, housing Czech, Hungarian, and Polish Jews and other "undesirables" in 1941.
On a more pleasant subject, we lunched at the beautiful castle in Melnik, overlooking the Vltava River, later arriving in Prague in time for a tour of the Prague Castle complex, largest medieval castle in Europe. After we settled into our hotel our evening included a "Czech Party", a dinner and folk show of musicians and dancers, at a country inn. Tired and full of wine, Czech beer, good ethnic food, we tumbled into bed.

Into Saxon Switzerland

July 7

Today the river ship made a side journey into the best kept secret part of southern Germany - Saxon Switzerland. Flatter farmland gave way to high cliffs of sandstone and forests. We sailed to a resort town of Bad Schandau to climb by bus up to the high Bastai Bridge for a hike among the sandstone cliffs overlooking the Elbe River. The most spectacular view on the journey! Then back to Dresden to finish up our individual explorations in the city. Tonight the farewell dinner, complete with baked Alaska.

Dresden, then and now

July 6

We are learning more specifics of the spoils of war, visiting cities in East Germany. Dresden almost made it through WWIl before the Brits dropped their bombs on the center of this city. It is quite impressive to see the recovery process of these magnificent 18th century palaces, churches, civic buildings.  An amazing find was a tour on our own to the "treasury" from the Green Vault of Augustus the Strong. (It's good to be the king!)

How To Celebrate a Birthday!

July 5

Yesterday we pulled into port at Meissen, the beautiful riverside city most famous for the highest quality porcelain in Europe, dating from the 18th century. Early morning rain gave way to a beautiful day. Our morning discovery was a tour through the magnificent Meissen porcelain factory/museum, keeping our credit cards in our pockets! A walk through town showed us the old, neglected east Germany, then the beautifully restored town center. I broke away to find a pub serving saurbraten unt pilsner.
Afternoon consumed with a trip into the country for a royal estate and winery tour.
We selected 5 of our new women friends for my birthday dinner table, complete with champagne, cake, and a singing captain and crew, followed by the crew "follies" as we sailed into beautiful Dresden, all aglow. What a Day.

Happy Birthday, America!

July 4

About the MS River Allegro

July 4

The Elbe River is smaller, non-commercial, flowing only from Germany to the Czech Republic. Our ship of 76 passengers, is very comfortable, allowing for more interaction among staff and guests. We feel more like family. Today the ship's staff honored us with 4th of July decorations and hamburgers!
Our trip leaders are currently giving us a presentation on what it was like growing up under the Soviet influence.
On the lighter side, our captain entertained us last night with his Johnny Cash style guitar singing.

A Day in Wittenberg

July 3

Docking in Wittenberg yesterday, we took a side trip by coach into the country to the 1000 year old town of Worlitz which, in the 18th century, became the home of the Worlitz Castle and its large UNESCO World Heritage English park. It is quite peaceful along this stretch of river with its country villages.
Today was devoted to discovering Lutherstadt Wittenberg, home of the founder of the Protestant Reformation, Martin Luther. The city is preparing for the 500th anniversary of the founding of the Lutheran church in 2017. An excellent local guide led us through the former monastery, living quarters, university and two churches which formed Luther's life. We witnessed the door upon which he posted his 95 theses against the "indulgences" practice of the Catholic church, starting the powerful movement against the Church. A fascinating account and a charming town!
This afternoon we were divided into small groups and were guests in private homes for a kaffeeklatsch, a chance to interact with the "locals" over homemade cake and coffee.
Tonight an evening of entertainment by the ship's staff featuring our captain, who is also a musician, Johnny Cash style. Who knew?

Cruising the Elbe

July 2

The Elbe River is the 4th largest in Germany but small enough to not be an industrial "highway" so wonderful for a slow, relaxing ride.

Transition Day

July 1

We climbed aboard our private luxury coach yesterday, leaving Berlin, and headed into the upscale  suburb of Potsdam. Our first piece of living history was to the Celienhof Palace, Crown Prince Wilhelm's pad, now a UNESCO museum, in what used to be East Berlin. This is where Stalin, Churchill, and Truman met to hammer  out the details of the German surrender in WWII, including establishing new country borders.
Lunch, al fresco style, at nearby Wannasee, at Hof Sans Souci, down the street from where the conference was held by the SS to determine how to "dispose of the Jews".
History becomes "real"! Walked the Bridge of Spies along our way to our ship.
2 hours away the MS Allegro, awaited us at Magdeburg.